NW 23rd Ave: Heart of Portland's Nob Hill Neighborhood

NW 23rd Ave, also known as Nob Hill or the Alphabet District, is a charming and vibrant street located in the northwest quadrant of Portland, Oregon. This historic avenue is lined with Victorian houses, trendy boutiques, cafes, and restaurants, making it a popular destination for both locals and tourists.

History of NW 23rd Ave

Early Development

The area surrounding NW 23rd Ave was originally part of a land claim owned by Captain John Heard Couch, a sea captain from Massachusetts who settled in Portland in the 1840s. Couch's land claim encompassed much of what is now known as Northwest Portland, including the Alphabet District.

In the late 1800s, the Alphabet District began to take shape as a residential neighborhood. Many of the houses built during this time were grand Victorian mansions, owned by wealthy Portland families. The streets in the area were named alphabetically, starting with Ankeny and ending with Wilson, giving the neighborhood its nickname.

Streetcar Era

The development of NW 23rd Ave was greatly influenced by the introduction of streetcars in the early 1900s. The streetcar line along NW 23rd Ave connected the neighborhood to downtown Portland, making it a convenient place to live for those working in the city center. This increased accessibility led to further growth and development in the area.

Post-World War II

Following World War II, many of the large Victorian houses in the Alphabet District were converted into apartments or boarding houses. This change in housing dynamics led to a period of decline for the neighborhood, as many of the properties fell into disrepair.

Revitalization

In the 1970s and 1980s, a new generation of Portlanders began to recognize the potential of NW 23rd Ave and the surrounding Alphabet District. Many of the historic houses were restored to their former glory, and new businesses, such as boutiques, cafes, and restaurants, began to open along the avenue. This revitalization effort transformed NW 23rd Ave into the vibrant and trendy destination it is today.

Attractions and Shopping

Boutiques and Specialty Shops

NW 23rd Ave is known for its unique and eclectic mix of boutiques and specialty shops. From vintage clothing stores to high-end fashion boutiques, there's something for every style and budget. Some notable shops include:

  1. Sloan Boutique: A women's clothing store featuring a curated selection of designer and contemporary brands.
  2. Wildfang: A gender-neutral clothing store that celebrates tomboy style and donates a portion of its profits to various charities.
  3. Oxalis Apothecary: A natural skincare and beauty boutique offering organic and sustainably sourced products.
  4. Betsy & Iya: A handcrafted jewelry store featuring unique, modern designs inspired by the Pacific Northwest.

Cafes and Restaurants

NW 23rd Ave is home to a wide variety of cafes and restaurants, offering everything from casual bites to fine dining experiences. Some popular spots include:

  1. Salt & Straw: A gourmet ice cream shop known for its unique and inventive flavors, such as Pear & Blue Cheese and Arbequina Olive Oil.
  2. Ken's Artisan Bakery: A beloved bakery offering handcrafted bread, pastries, and sandwiches.
  3. Ataula: A Spanish tapas restaurant featuring traditional dishes with a modern twist, such as patatas bravas and paella.
  4. Bamboo Sushi: A sustainable sushi restaurant that sources its fish from environmentally responsible suppliers and offers a variety of creative rolls and dishes.

Galleries and Art Spaces

The Alphabet District is home to several art galleries and creative spaces, showcasing the work of local and regional artists. Some notable galleries include:

  1. Froelick Gallery: A contemporary art gallery featuring paintings, sculptures, and works on paper by established and emerging artists from the Pacific Northwest and beyond.
  2. Augen Gallery: A gallery specializing in contemporary fine art prints, including lithographs, etchings, and screen prints by local and international artists.
  3. Northwest Woodworking Studio: A woodworking school and gallery that offers classes and workshops for all skill levels, as well as exhibits showcasing the work of local woodworkers.

Parks and Green Spaces

While NW 23rd Ave is primarily known for its shopping and dining, there are also several parks and green spaces nearby that offer a respite from the hustle and bustle of the city. Some popular parks include:

  1. Couch Park: A 4.4-acre park located just a few blocks from NW 23rd Ave, featuring a playground, basketball court, and open grassy areas perfect for picnics or relaxing.
  2. Washington Park: A sprawling 410-acre park located just west of the Alphabet District, home to several attractions such as the Oregon Zoo, Portland Japanese Garden, and International Rose Test Garden.
  3. Forest Park: One of the largest urban forests in the United States, with over 5,100 acres of hiking and biking trails, located just a short drive from NW 23rd Ave.

Events and Festivals

NW 23rd Ave and the surrounding Alphabet District host several events and festivals throughout the year, celebrating the neighborhood's vibrant culture and community spirit. Some notable events include:

  1. Nob Hill Street Fair: An annual event held in July, featuring live music, local vendors, and family-friendly activities.
  2. First Thursday Art Walk: A monthly event held on the first Thursday of each month, during which local galleries and businesses stay open late and offer special exhibits, performances, and refreshments.
  3. Portland Film Festival: An annual event showcasing independent films from around the world, with screenings held at various venues throughout the city, including some in the Alphabet District.

Architecture and Historic Homes

Victorian Mansions

One of the most striking features of NW 23rd Ave and the Alphabet District is the abundance of beautifully preserved Victorian mansions. These grand homes, built in the late 1800s and early 1900s, showcase a variety of architectural styles, including Queen Anne, Italianate, and Craftsman.

Some notable Victorian mansions in the area include:

  1. The Frank C. Barnes House: A Queen Anne-style mansion built in 1888, now home to the Architectural Heritage Center, which offers tours and educational programs focused on Portland's architectural history.
  2. The George Heusner House: An Italianate-style mansion built in 1881, featuring intricate woodwork and stained glass windows.
  3. The Morris Marks House: A Queen Anne-style mansion built in 1880, known for its ornate exterior and beautifully restored interior.

Historic Apartment Buildings

In addition to the Victorian mansions, NW 23rd Ave is also home to several historic apartment buildings that contribute to the neighborhood's unique character. Many of these buildings were constructed in the early 1900s and feature distinctive architectural details such as ornate brickwork, decorative cornices, and leaded glass windows.

Some notable historic apartment buildings include

  1. The Campbell Court Apartments: A Tudor Revival-style building constructed in 1907, known for its charming courtyard and whimsical gargoyles.
  2. The Kearney Plaza Apartments: A Spanish Colonial Revival-style building built in 1931, featuring a grand entrance and ornate tilework.
  3. The Wickersham Apartments: A Mediterranean Revival-style building constructed in 1927, with a stunning terra cotta facade and wrought-iron balconies.

Preserving the Neighborhood's Character

The Alphabet District and NW 23rd Ave have been recognized for their historic and architectural significance, with several properties listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The City of Portland has also implemented zoning regulations and design guidelines to ensure that new development in the area is compatible with the neighborhood's unique character.

Many of the neighborhood's residents and business owners are passionate about preserving the historic charm of NW 23rd Ave, and organizations like the Nob Hill Business Association work to promote and protect the avenue's distinct identity.

Transportation and Access

Public Transit

NW 23rd Ave is well-served by Portland's public transportation system, making it easy to access from other parts of the city. The Portland Streetcar's NS Line runs along NW 23rd Ave, connecting the neighborhood to downtown Portland and the Pearl District.

Several TriMet bus lines also serve the area, including the 15, 18, and 20, which provide connections to other neighborhoods and MAX light rail stations.

Biking and Walking

The Alphabet District and NW 23rd Ave are highly walkable and bicycle-friendly, with wide sidewalks, dedicated bike lanes, and ample bicycle parking. The neighborhood's compact layout and mix of residential and commercial uses make it an ideal place to explore on foot or by bike.

Parking

While street parking is available along NW 23rd Ave and the surrounding streets, it can be limited, especially during peak shopping and dining hours. Several public parking garages and surface lots are located nearby, providing additional parking options for visitors.

Nearby Neighborhoods and Attractions

Pearl District

Just to the east of NW 23rd Ave lies the Pearl District, a former industrial area that has been transformed into a trendy neighborhood known for its art galleries, boutiques, and upscale dining. The Pearl District is home to several notable attractions, including the Portland Center Stage at The Armory and Powell's City of Books, the world's largest independent bookstore.

Northwest District

The Northwest District, which encompasses NW 23rd Ave and the Alphabet District, is a larger neighborhood that extends west to the base of the West Hills. This area is known for its tree-lined streets, historic homes, and vibrant dining and shopping scene. Notable attractions in the Northwest District include the Portland International Raceway and the Northwest Portland Hostel & Guesthouse.

Downtown Portland

NW 23rd Ave is just a short streetcar or bus ride away from downtown Portland, the city's central business district. Downtown Portland is home to numerous attractions, including the Portland Art Museum, the Oregon Historical Society Museum, and Pioneer Courthouse Square, often referred to as "Portland's living room."

Forest Park and Washington Park

For those seeking a dose of nature, Forest Park and Washington Park are both easily accessible from NW 23rd Ave. Forest Park, with its extensive network of hiking and biking trails, offers a peaceful escape from the city, while Washington Park is home to several popular attractions, including the Oregon Zoo, the Portland Japanese Garden, and the International Rose Test Garden.

Living on NW 23rd Ave

Housing Options

NW 23rd Ave and the surrounding Alphabet District offer a variety of housing options, from historic Victorian mansions and charming craftsman bungalows to modern condominiums and apartments. The neighborhood's central location and walkable layout make it an attractive place to live for those who enjoy an urban lifestyle with easy access to amenities.

Rental prices in the area tend to be higher than the Portland average, reflecting the neighborhood's desirability and proximity to downtown. However, the area's diverse housing stock means that there are options available for a range of budgets and preferences.

Schools and Education

The Alphabet District is served by the Portland Public Schools district, with several high-quality schools located in or near the neighborhood. Some notable schools include:

  1. Chapman Elementary School: A K-5 school known for its strong academic programs and engaged parent community.
  2. Metropolitan Learning Center: A K-12 alternative school that offers a unique, interdisciplinary curriculum and emphasizes project-based learning.
  3. Lincoln High School: A comprehensive high school with a strong focus on college preparation and a wide range of extracurricular activities.

In addition to public schools, the neighborhood is home to several private and parochial schools, such as St. Mary's Academy, a Catholic all-girls high school, and the French American International School, which offers a bilingual education from pre-K through 8th grade.

Community and Neighborhood Associations

The Alphabet District and NW 23rd Ave have a strong sense of community, with several active neighborhood associations and organizations that work to promote the area's interests and preserve its unique character. Some notable organizations include:

  1. The Northwest District Association (NWDA): A non-profit organization that represents the interests of residents and businesses in the Northwest District, including the Alphabet District. The NWDA works on issues related to land use, transportation, public safety, and community development.
  2. The Nob Hill Business Association: An organization that promotes and supports businesses along NW 23rd Ave and the surrounding area, organizing events and advocating for the interests of local business owners.
  3. Friendly House: A non-profit community center that offers a range of programs and services for residents of all ages, including childcare, after-school programs, senior activities, and community events.

These organizations provide opportunities for residents to get involved in shaping the future of their neighborhoods and fostering a strong sense of community.

Conclusion

NW 23rd Ave, with its charming Victorian architecture, eclectic mix of boutiques and restaurants, and vibrant community spirit, is truly the heart of Portland's Nob Hill neighborhood. From its early days as a residential enclave for Portland's wealthy families to its current status as a trendy destination for locals and tourists alike, NW 23rd Ave has undergone a remarkable transformation while still maintaining its unique character and historic charm.

Whether you're a long-time resident, a new transplant, or a visitor exploring the city, NW 23rd Ave offers something for everyone. With its walkable layout, diverse shopping and dining options, and easy access to nearby attractions and neighborhoods, it's no wonder that this iconic avenue continues to captivate and inspire all those who experience its timeless appeal.

As Portland continues to grow and evolve, NW 23rd Ave serves as a reminder of the city's rich history and a testament to the enduring power of community, creativity, and preservation. By embracing its past and adapting to the present, this beloved neighborhood is sure to remain a vital and cherished part of Portland's urban fabric for generations to come.